Gwaii Haanas National Park I

It was a dark and stormy morning! Adventure Ho. My intrepid companions were an English couple, a couple from Spain, a Swiss fellow and two Canadian couples. Two clothing layers and the rain gear kept us dry and warm, but you felt that if you fell over, you would never get up.

First stop an old logging camp abandoned in the1930's. Any thing wooden has rotted, but the stronger steel has yet to succumb to the environment.

Steam donkey

Trucks with out engines

More to come.

Spirit Lake Trail

A really great gravel trail that winds through a silent, dense forest.  Ferns, moss and lichens carpet the forest floor.

Wasco, the Sea Wolf, is a prominent sea creature from Haida myth time. 
Wasco is a giant sea monster, half wolf and half killer whale that had the ability to move on both land and in the sea. Wasco hunts and eats killer whales.
In past times, Wasco was known to terrorize Haida villages along the coast of Haida Gwaii. 

Wasco Sea Monster

Tomorrow I head for an even better forest, the Gwaii Haanas National Park. This will be an over night trip to to this dense ancient old growth forest. 

The Haida

The Haida Heritage Centre in Queen Charlotte is a must see. This wonderful museum dramatically presents the Haida history. No photos allowed. The earliest excavated sites date back to over 12,000 years. The Haida culture is older, but these sites have been inundated by rising sea levels. Contact with europeans was deadly for the Haida. Small Pox decimated 90% of their numbers, followed by missionaries who attempted to eradicate their culture.
Today, thankfully, the Haida are embracing and rebuilding their historical culture across the island and especially in places like the Haida Heritage Centre.

This magnificent cedar pole is the middle section of a much larger monumental pole carved circa 1800's. At the base is the head of a Grizzly Bear. The next figure is a Chief signified by the Potlatch hat with rings, each ring represented a Potlatch hosted by that Chief. The top figure is a Dogfish which is often represented with sharp teeth and the gills on each side.

The Craving Shed where artisans create new works of art telling the Haida's oral history.  

The art of the Haida is so beautiful. 

When you visit plan to eat at the Kay Bistro in the Haida Heritage Centre. Some of the best food on the island.  

Another great boondocking spot.
(53.542386, -131.945660)

Tlell Fall Fair

I arrived just in time the local fair. It happened on a misty drippy day, but fun was had by all. Haida Gwaii supports a very laid back life style. Haida Gwaii is Haida and means Island of the people. The island is now officially Haida Gwaii, replacing Queen Charlotte Island.

Inside Passage

16 hours to Prince Rupert.

Spent the night in the parking lot. They woke me up at 6:30,
loading at 7:30

Down we go.

This crew member jogged several laps around the ship

I did see several whales and caught one breaching. 

Dryad Point lighthouse established in 1899.

Boat Bluff lighthouse established in 1907

Butedale was established in 1918 as a fishing, mining and logging area. A cannery and fish reduction plant operated here until the sixties. At its peak, the community had a summer population of 400 people. 

Just Perfect

I have spent two very peaceful days at Georgie Lake. (50.744553, -127.614665) You couldn't ask for a nicer spot. Free, water front camping and I no neighbors.

Tomorrow Serenity descends into the belly of the beast for her 16 hour trip to Prince Rupert. I am looking forward to seeing the splendor of the inside passage and maybe some Orca. Tonight I will be camped in lane 8 at the ferry terminal. (map) Loading begins at 5:30 am.